Friday, October 13, 2006

LA Weekly Review by Johnathan Gold

Enoteca Drago

In New York City, Italian wine bars are multiplying like mosquitoes. In Los Angeles, the most serious Italian wine bar is probably the posh Enoteca Drago, an outpost of Celestino Drago's pasta-driven empire, where you can chase a plate of prosciutto, a mess of baby octopods, or even the elusive lardo — cured pig fat in the style of northwestern Tuscany, melted onto a slab of fried bread — with a glass of crisp Verdicchio from the Marches. Some of the wines are served in flights — sets of small pours arranged by grape or by region. Enoteca Drago does function as a full restaurant, although it is occasionally hard to remember this when you're floating in the middle of a Brunello reverie, but you will also find great pasta with pesto and one of the few proper versions of spaghetti carbonara in town.
Open Mon.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.,
Sun. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Full bar. Valet parking. AE, DC, MC, V.
Entrées. $13.50-$18.
410 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, CA, (310) 786-8236
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